You have just completed your garden and you want to know what to do next. Should you cut down all the tall, dead branches? Should you pick those few lucky stems that have grown from the inner circle of your tree? Should you leave a stump or two so that you can remember the name of the place you took the bulbs from?
issors, paper and a magnifying glassAre handy for this, don’t they? Yes, I said scissors, and I meant the type you use to trim your hair. I’ve never had much luck with irises, gladioli and dahlias growing in my own gardens, so I opted for the scissors.
In this article, I’ll cover the last of the three required garden plants for a successful epiphyte type oforchid. You will also need to decide whether you think that cutting off the lush green leaves will harm the plant or not.
Lilies – lifecycle of the bulb
Why should you grow lilies? They are extremely easy to grow, care for and get large in just a season! Why? They have a totally different growth cycle than most other plants. Instead of growing all the way up to the sun like most roses do, they instead form a huge flower spike from the node of their rhizome.
As perennials, lilies live more than 2 years, so they are well worth keeping in your garden. You do need to be patient with them, though. They don’t flower for about 8 to 10 years after they are first planted, so you may have to patience on your lily growth!
Unlike most roses, lilies do not fight with the roots of the plant to get the nutrients they need. Instead, they get what they need through their leaves. Once the leaves are dried out, the plant then works very hard to try and repair them using photosynthesis.
When you plant your lily, make sure the hole is big enough for the lily bulb to sit comfortably. You would not want the bulb to fall out when it is very wet or too dry. Instead, make a hole into the soil and plant the bulb. Cover the hole up with dirt and water the plant accordingly.
How about some basic therapy for your ailing roses?
According to the American Rose Society, Structure is the key to successful rose gardening.
Structure involves the idea of strong, healthy stems supporting the upstart branches. Forming strong stems is really about Crab crawling MH, or Marginal Harmonic reachingynthesis. This is one of the branches we don’t want to mess with.
The next crucial step is fertilization. This is the only step we want to get wrong! How much fertilizer you use depends on your soil type. All soils after the initial sand/clay are now feed for growth. Colors of the fertilizer you use will dictate how much you should use.
Osmunda also contains small particles of soil, which is perfect for the soil/rhizome interaction. MH or no fertilizer feeding is optimal for lilies.
9. Watering
Roses like a lot of water… lots of it. They don’t like to be dry, and they certainly don’t like to be too wet. But, also like most plants, too much water kills them. The best rule of thumb as a rose gardener is to water daily if you have moderate weather, every 2 days if you have hot days, and about once a week if it’s sweltering.
There are different techniques for watering. The best way to water is to follow the rhizome and spread the water into the base of the bush. Dig a hole about an inch larger than the pot and deep enough to cover about ½ of the rhizome. Then, refill the hole and, maybe, tamp it down. This allows the nutrients and water to work their way into the root and end producing the flower.
Another popular method is to water from below. Set your rose out in a tray of water and let it soak into the soil. Be sure to leave the container on the patio or wherever cold air can come in, because cold water can stop the flowering process.
10. Fertilization
Fall is the time of the year when roses really need to have foliar feeding. This is where the big Oyamae genes comes in. However, I like to side dress with 40-10-10 at this time. This gives the big guys all the big Oomydo benefits, and a little bit of nitrogen too.
A final secret many rosarians know is that by following the.
